Why does my opener run but the door stays still?

That is often a stripped drive gear or a disengaged trolley. It can also happen when the door is jammed or a spring has broken.

When is repair better than replacement?

Repair usually makes sense when the unit is relatively recent and the failure is a single component. Older units with multiple failing parts are often better replaced.

Do you work on wall-mount openers?

Yes. Wall-mount jackshaft openers are serviced along with traditional chain, belt and screw-drive units.

Garage Door Opener Repair

Chain, belt, screw-drive and wall-mount openers — diagnosed properly, including the door itself, because most opener complaints start with the door.

Ceiling-mounted belt drive garage door opener inside a residential garage

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An opener is designed to move a balanced door, not to lift its full weight. That is why opener troubleshooting always starts with a balance test: if the door is heavy or binding, the opener is a symptom rather than the cause.

Once the door checks out, the opener itself is evaluated — drive components, logic board, motor, limit and force settings, safety sensors, wall control and remotes. Many issues come down to travel limits that have drifted, a sensor knocked out of alignment, or a worn drive gear.

Repair options are presented honestly. When a unit is well past its service life or replacement parts cost more than a new opener makes sense, that is explained rather than glossed over.

Common signs

The motor runs but the door does not move
The door reverses immediately after touching the floor
The opener is loud, grinding or vibrating
The wall button works but remotes do not
The opener stops partway through travel
Lights flash and the door refuses to close

Common causes

Worn drive gear or sprocket
Stretched chain or belt
Travel limit or force settings out of adjustment
Misaligned or failed photo-eye sensors
Logic board or capacitor failure
An unbalanced door overloading the unit

Our inspection

Manual balance test with the opener disconnected
Inspect rail, chain or belt tension and drive components
Test wall control, remotes and keypad
Check photo-eye alignment, wiring and indicator lights
Review force and travel-limit settings
Safety-reversal test at the floor

The process

Confirm the fault and isolate door versus opener
Correct door balance issues first if present
Repair or replace failed opener components
Reset travel limits and force settings
Re-align and test safety sensors
Verify reversal, remotes and keypad operation

Risks of delaying service

Incorrect force settings defeat an important safety feature
A straining opener can fail entirely and leave the door stuck
Sensor faults prevent the door from closing reliably
Ignoring noise usually means a worn gear eventually strips

Related components

Motor and drive gear
Chain, belt or screw rail
Logic board
Travel and force controls
Photo-eye sensors
Wall control and remotes

Where this service applies

Residential chain, belt, screw-drive and wall-mount openers on sectional doors.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my opener run but the door stays still?: That is often a stripped drive gear or a disengaged trolley. It can also happen when the door is jammed or a spring has broken.
When is repair better than replacement?: Repair usually makes sense when the unit is relatively recent and the failure is a single component. Older units with multiple failing parts are often better replaced.
Do you work on wall-mount openers?: Yes. Wall-mount jackshaft openers are serviced along with traditional chain, belt and screw-drive units.